The original plan was to do both Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung in the same day with Bukchon Hanook Village slotted in between since the 2 palaces are nearby each other. However this was not possible due to the amount of time that is needed to roam around each palaces, especially when we plan to visit the Biwon or the Secret Garden in Changdeokgung. Coupled with the fact that we woke up later than we should (well we are on vacation after all, the beauty of free and easy trips is time is up to us to plan and adjust). Getting to Changdeokgung is a breeze thanks to the convenience the Korean Subway System brings. To get to Changdeokgung, one would need to alight at Anguk Station. Take Exit 3 and Changdeokgung is a mere 5 mins walk from the exit.
Changdeokgung
There are 5 palaces (namely Gyeongbukgung, Changdeokgung, Changyeonggung, Deoksugung and Gyeonghuigung) spreading around in Seoul. Changdeokgung, built in 1405, served as a secondary palace to Gyeongbukgung and was the first to be rebuilt when all the palaces in Seoul was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592. Since Changdeokgung was the primary palace where the King and his ministers decided state affairs for about 270 years.
 |
| Donhwamun is the main entrance to Changdeokgung |
Biwon (The Secret Garden)
Biwon is the very reason why we visited Changdeokgung, covering about 2/3 of the entire palace grounds. There are limited number of visitors allowed on a daily basis into this Secret Garden. When we arrived at Changdeokgung, we realised that the last English tour for Biwon is about to start. Hence we decided to do the Biwon first and allocate the rest of the time to roam around Changdeokgung. We quickly got the tickets to Biwon Tour and Changdeokgung. To access Biwon, one must join a guided tour, which has 3 runs daily for the English tours during Nov to Feb (and 4 English tour groups from Mar to Oct). Biwon was known by several names, Huwon and Geunwon, but the name Biwon was officially known after King Kojong, the 26th King of the Joseon Dynasty and the first emperor of Korea, bestowed the name to the garden. Biwon was constructed to serve as a leisure place for the Royal family and palace women for centuries.
A rectangular pond - Buyongji Pond, greets visitors to Biwon and this is the first sight after walking for around 3 mins from the entrance to the garden. The pond was covered with a thin sheet of ice at the time of visit. There are 3 buildings surrounding the pond. Nearer to the entrance to the garden is the Buyongjeong Pavilion, the only building with a criss-cross roof in the entire Biwon area. There is a building nested on a small slope opposite the pavilion, known as the Juhamnu Pavilion, this is the place where the scholars hired by the King used to study. There is also a reading room for the King inside this 2-stoery building. It is a shame that this building was out of bounds to visitors these days. On the side of the pond, between Buyongjeong and Juhamnu Pavilions is a single storey red structure. This structure used to be the examination hall for scholars taking the royal exam. There is a certain peace and tranquil lurking around this area, and visiting this place is certainly therapeutic.
 |
| Jongdeokjeong pavilion area |
 |
| The ponds at Jongdeokjeong pavilion area is irregular shaped, unlike the ones we seen before this |
 |
| Pond at Jongdeokjeong pavilion area |
 |
| Another view of Jongdeokjeong pavilion area |
 |
| 2 of the few pavilions at Jongdeokjeong area |
 |
| This octagon shaped pavilion is the biggest of all the pavilions at Jongdeokjeong pavilion area |
 |
| Fan shaped pavilion sitting at the edge of the pond |
 |
| Fan shaped pavilion |
 |
| Me at the fan shaped pavilion |
 |
| This lone building is built on a higher ground at Jongdeokjeong pavilion area |
 |
| Another building that offers no view of the ponds |
 |
| Another pavilion located at the upper stream of the pond at Jongdeokjeong pavilion area |
The next stop -
Ongnyucheon Stream requires a fair bit of walk up slope, it seem that the
Ongnyucheon Stream is situation on the highest ground in this garden. Walking through the garden in winter (where the snow has yet to fall) is rather unique. The garden at this time of the year is covered with mostly brown, draped with trees which leaves has fallen and occasional greenery for winter plants. The Ongnyucheon Stream is a manmade waterfall, spring water is used for this waterfall. The design of this waterfall was to blend in with the surrounding landscape. It is a pity that during our visit, the waterfall was not function, maybe due to the water being frozen at this time of the year. There are several buildings built in this area, with the waterfall function, I thought this would be a very nice place to relax in the days of the Joseon Dynasty.
 |
| Stroll through the woods before we reach Ongnyucheon Stream |
 |
| There is another pavilion along the way to Ongnyucheon stream |
 |
| There are a few pavilions at Ongnyucheon stream area. This is one of them |
 |
| Ongnyucheon stream, due to the climate no water is flowing through the stream |
 |
| Walking through the woods at Biwon |
 |
| My friend at Ongnyucheon stream area |
 |
| This is a manmade waterfall feature at Ongnyucheon stream area, however due to the climate no water was spotted flowing through |
 |
| Me at one of the pavilions at Ongnyucheon stream area |
 |
| Close up view of the ceiling of the pavilion |
 |
| Ongnyucheon stream |
 |
| Some trees at Ongnyucheon stream area |
 |
| Me at Ongnyucheon stream area |
 |
| My friend at the Ongnyucheon stream area with 2 of the few pavilions in the area |
 |
| Another pavilion at Ongnyucheon stream area |
 |
| A stand alone building at Ongnyucheon stream area |
 |
| My friend with the building at Ongnyucheon stream area |
The final stop during this guided tour is the
Yeongyeongdang Hall. The buildings that forms
Yeongyeongdang Hall was not brightly painted, but covered in earthy tones. These buildings does not resemble one that the King will be used. The halls looks like a residence of some sort complete with room and what appears to be a kitchen. The guide explained that this place was used to hold ceremonies where there are a change of title for the King or the Queen. We were told that this place was also used by one of the Korean King as a retreat from politics whilst the crown prince ran the country temporarily. Due to the rain, the grounds of the hall feels muddy. We were given some time to roam around the hall area before the guide led us back to the entrance, through a part of the garden that has mostly plants and no buildings, skirting the outer parameter of
Changdeokgung before hitting
Donhwamun gate.
 |
| Exterior of Yeongyeongdang hall |
 |
| Me at Yeongyeongdang hall, there seem to be buildings that one can stay in here |
 |
| My friend at Yeongyeongdang hall compound |
 |
| Proper living areas with kitchen and stables can be found in Yeongyeongdang hall |
 |
| My friend at one of the living quarters in Yeongyeongdang hall |
 |
| Yeongyeongdang hall |
 |
| View outside Yeongyeongdang hall |
Changdeokgung Palace Grounds
We re-entered
Changdeokgung through
Donhwamun. The 5-panel 2-storey bright red main gate of the palace looks like a pavilion on a larger scale. It does screams of the King's authority over the Korean Empire. The entire gate is made of wood and is very well preserved despite being built in 1412. Unlike most palaces where the main gate is preceded by another gate leading to the throne hall, the layout of this palace has the throne hall to the right of the main gate. Immediately in front of the main gate are some buildings and a shrine enclosed in a short wall.
 |
| Palace grounds after Donhwamun |
Crossing a small stone bridge, passing through another door on the left is the door to the throne hall. Passing through 3rd door (since
Donhwamun) opens up to a massive square before the throne hall. There are tablets laid on the floor of this square marking the position various ranked officers would stand when court session takes place. At the heart of this area is the throne hall -
Injeongjeon. From the outside,
Injeonjeon throne hall looks like a 2 storey building decked out in the iconic green and red colour schemes that is commonly found in Korean structures. Peeking into
Injeonjeon (visitors are only allowed at the door of
Injeonjeon), one can see the wooden interior actually is a single storey building with high ceilings. The ceiling of the throne hall is decked out with elaborate and well carved intersections of wooden pieces painted with mainly green and red colour murals. The throne the King sits during court proceedings is placed in the centre of the hall, with paintings of mountains and waterfalls forms the backdrop of the yellow throne. The throne hall itself can accommodate a substantial amount of people. I was rather impressed with the simple yet authoritative the throne hall presents itself.
 |
| This door leads to the throne hall |
 |
| Me at the door before the throne hall |
 |
| Passing through this door will lead to the throne hall |
 |
| Me at the door before the throne hall |
 |
| Injeonjeon - the throne hall. Officials used to stand according to their rank int the square outside the throne hall |
 |
| Me and my friend at the square outside the throne hall |
 |
| Underroofing of Injeonjeon |
 |
| My friend with Injeonjeon at the background |
 |
| Inside Injeonjeon is the King's throne in the centre |
 |
| Some buildings at the side of Injeonjeon |
 |
| Elaborate ceiling decor inside Injeonjeon |
 |
| My friend at the square outside Injeonjeon |
 |
| Panoramic shot inside Injeonjeon |
Heading right from
Injeonjeon, passing through a corridor and a side door, we end up in front of
Huijeongdang Hall. Compared to the throne hall,
Huijeongdang Hall is a smaller building, but yet still decked out in the green and red colour scheme. This is hall is where the King Chamber is located, which doubles up as his workplace. This hall is linked to the rear building with a series of sheltered corridors.
 |
| This side door at the throne hall leads to Huijeongdang hall |
 |
| Huijeongdang hall |
 |
| Corridor that leads further into Huijeongdang hall |
 |
| Sleeping quarters for the King in Huijeongdang hall |
 |
| View of Injeonjeon from Huijeongdang hall |
 |
| Around Huijeongdang hall |
 |
| A series of such covered corridors linked Huijeongdang hall to Daejojeon |
Behind
Huijeongdang, through a maze of covered corridors is where
Daejojeon is located.
Daejojeon served as the residence of the Queen. Compared to the King's Chambers,
Daejojeon has a much simplier decor. There is a living room of some sort at the centre of
Daejojeon, furnished with pearl and marble laid wooden furnitures. Without a guide explaining the details of these palace grounds, roaming around on our own does not provide much significance to the areas that we have visited. After awhile all the buildings looked the same to us.
 |
| This corridor leads to Daejojeon |
 |
| Around Daejojeon |
 |
| This is the Queen's residence at Daejojeon |
 |
| Some buildings at Daejojeon |
 |
| Korean ar chitecture at Daejojeon |
 |
| My friend at Daejojeon |
 |
| These corridors are one of the few that links Daejojeon to Huijeongdang Hall |
 |
| Close up view of the corridors |
 |
| Peeking inside part of Daejojeon |
 |
| A living room that is attached to the Queen's quarters in Daejojeon |
 |
| My friend at Daejojeon |
Heading out of
Daejojeon through
Huijeongdang, to the right of these buildings is where
Seongjeonggak Hall is located.
Seongjeonggak Hall is initially used as the residence of the Crown Prince, which has later became a library before taking its last task of being the royal hospital. This hall has a rather unique structure that one end of the building is laid on the flat ground, and another end on a raised platform, making it a split level building structure.
 |
| Part of Seongjeonggak hall |
 |
| Me at Seongjeonggak hall |
 |
| Seongjeonggak hall |
 |
| My friend at Seongjeonggak hall |
 |
| Building in Seongjeonggak hall |
 |
| One of the living quarters in Seongjeonggak hall |
 |
| My friend at Seongjeonggak hall |
 |
| Me in front of a building at Seongjeonggak hall |
As it is approaching closing time, we hurried to a separate, dull looking stand alone building complex, locating to the right of the road to the Secret Garden. The
Nakseonjae complex was built as the King's quarters, despite being the King's quarter, the King then decreed that the building to be kept simple in its construction. This complex was later used as the quarters for the wife of the last Crown Prince. As we walked into this area, it looked pretty much the same as the other buildings we have seen within
Changdeokgung, but simpler and smaller. We hurried out of the palace grounds as it was approaching its closing time.
 |
| We did not take too many pictures in Nakseonjae complex partly due to the closing time is near and partly due to its simpleness does not seem fit for a king to living in. |
 |
| Inside Nakseonjae complex |
No comments:
Post a Comment